DIY modern farmhouse dining table for under $120!
Looking for a modern farmhouse dining table but don’t want to spend a ton? Check out our tutorial for how to make this beautiful modern farmhouse dining table for under $120!!
Pin for Later
DIY Modern Farmhouse Dining Table for under $120!
I wouldn’t exactly say that Jade and I are lovers of DIY projects, but over the years we have ended up spending a lot of time designing and making our own furniture, either because we couldn’t find something we liked OR we didn’t have the budget for something we did like.
Farmhouse tables are a timeless classic. We have had ours for over 10 years now and still love it. Its definitely a style that will stand the test of time and it holds up well with a busy family.
However, many modern farmhouse tables can be incredibly expensive costing thousands of dollars.
In today’s post, we will be sharing how you can make your own modern farmhouse dining table for under $120 Canadian. That means this table will be even cheaper for our American friends!
Let’s dive in.
DIY Modern Farmhouse Dining Table Materials & Tools
- 2×4 – 8′ long x7
- 12′ Whitewood, (or pine panels) x4
- 2-1/2″ Kreg Screws
- Titebond 3 wood glue
- z clips
- Minwax weathered oak, and early American (we mixed these together in equal parts)
- Clamps (these are the best but these are a cheaper option)
- M18 Drill
- Krek Pocket hole jig
- palm sander
- sanding sponge
- Mitre saw (dewalt 780)
- Table saw (Bosch)
Tutorial for a Modern Farmhouse Dining Table
I like to start with the table legs on a project like this because we will need to glue them together, and they will have to be set aside until the next day.
Start by cutting 8 pieces of 2×4 at approx. 30″+, we will cut these down to proper size later so no need to be exact here. These will be glued together in pairs, and set aside until the glue is dry, I usually wait until the following day and move on to other pieces in the meantime.
Once dried, take the legs out of the clamps, scrape off the excess glue, and rip them square on the table saw. I do this in stages, rotating the leg and taking a bit off at a time, trying to keep them as wide as possible. In this case it will probably end up about 2-3/4″ square.
Set the mitre saw to 15 degrees on both compound and mitre. Whenever I am cutting table legs, I like to cut 2 at once, this way they are exactly the same length. (I am cutting 3 in this picture because I made the first one separately). Clamp 2 legs together like the picture shows, at 28″.
Cut 2×4’s to length:
25″ 15 degree between legs x 2
47.5″ bottom stretcher x 1
58″ Straight cut, length pieces x 2
27-1/2″ Straight cut, cross pieces x 5
Drill pocket holes on the bottom side of supports, stretcher, and the top of the cross braces.
Sanding! Start with a palm sander with 120grit paper until smooth. This is probably the most tedious part, but it is well worth taking your time! Once it’s smooth I finish it off with a 150grit sanding sponge. Don’t forget to soften the edges because at this point they will be quite sharp.
Assemble the frame.
First, set the 25″ piece between 2 of the legs, and make sure they are each angled inward toward the middle. I put the centre piece on some scraps of wood to raise it up off the bench so that it is centred on the leg when you screw it in. Don’t forget to add some glue as well!
I missed taking this picture but you will still need to attach one of the 5 straight pieces you cut earlier to the top of each leg assembly. I just screwed those in from the top in this case, but some dowels and glue would help in strengthening it.
Then, like the second picture below, flip those leg assemblies over, and attach the bottom stretcher, making sure it is entered within the frame.
Next flip it over again so it’s the right way up now, and attach the 2 longest pieces to the sides of the leg assemblies, as well as the other 3 short pieces like the pictures below.
That’s it for the frame!
Now it is time for the top! You can decide how wide you want your gaps to be by just laying out the top boards and just seeing what you like. We went for about 1/8″ gap. For that measurement, I took the total table width, minus 3/8″ (there is only 3 gaps in the 4 pieces) and then divided that by 4. Take those boards back to the table saw and rip them to that width, don’t worry about cutting them to the proper length yet.
Lay them out on your table and make sure it looks right to you. From the bottom, mark where you want to attach each board. I like to use these Z-Clips so as the wood expands and contracts it doesn’t get warped. Once you’ve marked this, take them off, cut your biscuit slots to fit your Z-Clips.
Once your 4 top boards are secured, using a straight edge or a track saw (I need one!!) cut each side to length, this will assure that all your boards line up perfectly.
Now for the apron, skirt, edge, trim… I’m not sure what this is called, but it will finish off the build! I used the scrap pieces I ripped off of the top boards for this, I believe I ripped them to about 2-1/2″ first, but here is where you can get creative! You can cut them mush wider and have the appearance of a really really think top, or you can add a profile to the edge too, maybe a chamfer or a round over.
I find it more accurate when measuring these pieces to, not measure. By holding the piece up to the table edge, you can be sure you will get it the exact right size.
Once you have them how you like them, you can clamp them in place, or just hold them, and use brad nails to install. Make sure to fill those holes once you’re done!
And, once more, get out the sander again… I just did the same thing here with 120grit and then the 150grit sponge.
Stain it! We used a 50/50 mix or Minwax’s weathered oak and early American.
Time to Eat!!!
Pin for later
Check out our other similar posts
Follow Along with Us
Thanks for stopping by the blog today. You can also find me on Youtube, Instagram and Pinterest. Did you know we make and sell home decor!? You can shop our home decor products on our Etsy shop.